Hornet, does that mean a subaru could have won?
Will the honda's domination be short lived?

Sorry, did'nt check the entry list, thought lia's super1650 scoobie must have been running!
But....the hondas domination WILL be short lived!!!

jones off road wrote:

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But....the hondas domination WILL be short lived!!!

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But you agree  that the hondas are dominant! How did the suby go at Pines. I noticed you were DNF which is unfortunate for testing a new setup.Any first impressions ?

Chris

 

Hi Steve.

As we were discussing on the weekend, maybe you can have a look at the water pump to check that it is working properly?  With everything else that you have done, it is the only thing that I can think of.  I guess, depending on the revs that it is doing, could it be cavitating if it is at high revs, or alternatively, if it isn't spinning quick enough, maybe it isn't getting enough flow?  Or, maybe the pump is just not working properly? 

Like I said, after everything that you have already done, I can't think of anything else it could be. 

If its not tune (Dick Allport told us he used to back off and go again every once in a while to give the engine a burst of fuel from the acc pump to keep it cool on long straights) or the pump (you could try an external electric pump?) might it be air pockets in the water system? Paul fixed his overheating by running a small tank to bleed air out of the system hight points). Do you run an oil cooler? What time is flight QF508 out of sydney? How much is a dollars worth of chips?

jonesy
  id go with motown on this one and fit a electric pump and the tank to bleed air out of the system

Try having a look at this link,

http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31234

It has some good ideas for sorting your problem.

Wayne,
Your idea would be correct, but I have run a thermostat with and without bypass already. Also I have run no thermostat, jammed open thermostat, and drilled holes around outside of thermostat.
I never beleived in cavitating waterpumps before (causing overheating I mean), but it looks like I will try an electric wpump to supplement original. Apparently in circuit racing etc it is a known problem.
Thanks for the link blurredvision...I will check it out!

cheers jones. we replaced the thermostat but drilled a 5mm hole through the top of it to stop air locks when filling, same as we did with the 4ag's.

1uz is the same as well.

I was going to ask the same question as trekka but didn't want to insult you Steve, but I have seen a buggy with the bottom hose coming from the top of the radiator. He also was having cooling probs ,. Thought that because the thermostat was down low that the water must circulate the other way.

Thanks Boss,
Got on to Vern, Guess what?....Same trouble as myself, same symptoms, and problem still not solved!
Any other ideas....anybody?

Wolf may be on something, I mean onto something. I've seen many EJ series Subaru engines now with what can only be desribed as a microscopic head gasket leak which will not show up even with a cylinder leakage test. They only cause a problem under heat & load like a hard run up through Kangaroo Valley or similar. If you have a look at the deck design you can see that it is probable that there is movement of the cylinder top surface (due to the only supports being 180 degrees apart) in relation to the surface of the head & therefore the head gasket. This tends to "peel" off  the very fine layer of teflon like sealing material on the head gasket & it will not cause a problem in normal gentle driving. I have found that the new head gaskets (genuine) seem to be a slightly different material & have never had one re-offend, with heads machined of course. I also go slightly more heavy handed on the tensioning proceedure. Pretty deep stuff huh. but it may be worth a look. 

i blocked all by pass pipes and holes in top manfold and ran no thermostat and no restritor bottom hose to bottom radiator on the ej1600 and the ej 2200 with no promlem temp ran at 110 120 at the most ! ant