It is not fouling the plugs, in fact it goes quite ok once it starts. Yes it has been on the dyno, and original tuned by Bill Croft. However he was tuning the motor not looking at the hard to start problem.
cold start i think it gives the engine extra fuel to start with my 20v with a ems i took out the cold start buy eg if the cold start said 40 at 20cc i took it back to 00 and 40 at 40cc i took it back to 00 that is with a ems. or ring werner and get his program he has a motec.
-- Edited by MARTIN OFF ROAD on Thursday 27th of August 2009 01:31:42 PM
Here's a priceless tip that was passed on to me a while back, not specific to any brand ECU. I use an EMS but also had hard start up when cold. Place a 300mm cable tie tightly around a part of the car or engine near the throttle body, arrange for the tail to 'stand erect' (wolf don't ask how to give a cable tie an erection) away from the throttle area so as not to get in the way of anything when running. Before you start up cold place the tail of the cable tie in between the throttle quadrant & the stop screw & start without touching the throttle. This gives a slight increased idle speed during initial warm up & once the temp needle starts moving just give it a rev & the erect cable is again out of the way. You may all laugh but it is so simple & it works brilliantly, unless you have to preset the throttle even when warm then you may have a more serious problem with settings. Try it I dare you.
Although it doesn't address my cold start problem it sounds like a good idea to me, in fact once I get the bugger start I usually have to stand holding the throttle slightly open until the motor warms. I will try the horny cable tie and see if it works.
Your cold start is still more than likely ECM cold start adjustments. You will need to learn how to adjust them yourself, trial and error will be required as you only get one cold start per day! Most tuners are only interested in Dynoing for performance, and leave a lot of other adjustments unnattended. (accel pump, cold start etc) Motec is very complicated to use compared to EMS etc, if you cant work it out then maybe leave the buggy with a tuner for a few days (so they can get cold starts) to let them sort it, a good tuner will know rough adjustments straight-up....all you got to do is find a good tuner? I found Skaza pretty good!! Also with Motec, you can switch-on an accellerator pump, which activates the injectors when the throttle is pushed to the floor before cranking (like a carby), I have this and find cold starts are great using it, and saves trying to set-up the cold start map properly!
I have just been out fiddling with the cold start adjustments on my Motec. I found that I got a start up with increased fuel settings not less. Although I will try again tomorrow to see if I am on the right track. Thanks for all your advice it is very much appreciated.
funny about the cable tie as throttle position has nothing to do with cold start ,cold start is only an electronic choke just be carefull you dont go to rich on cold start and get to rich a mixture it will be even worse to start.
I think the cable tie just provides a fast idle assistance, as most people dont run any idle control motors! But yes, too rich will also be bad...trial and error!
Ours is the same. Cold start is a pain, fine once its up to temp. Ive not mucked about with the cold start percentages yet, as per jones, when I start it I have a few percent throttle on for 30secs or so, then it idles ok for the rest of the warm up.
Once warm (or even half an hour after shutting it down) it still fires up OK. I dont really want to add cold start fuel as I dont want to foul plugs.
Call it manual idle control for cold starts!
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Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
dead battery i would guess. It may also be possible that you have a failed starter.
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