Hey Fez, I've tried the floating disc and I didn't like it. Just too much to go wrong i guess. Check to make sure nothing has moved or bent? I bent an upright at mogumber and it took a while for the pads to find there happy spot again (long pedal) maybe the same is happening?
using a 3/4 rear and 7/8 front with 4 pot calipers
jet na dont think thats the case , its always been that way , not just suddenly happen , my calipers are on the rear side of the wheel to protect them better , and pritty sure the foddrill king kong stubs won't bend by them selfs lol
been chatting to BOOST and LIA OFFROAD , they said they have had the same dramas ,
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were we're goin we dont need roads.
it's not the speed of life that scares me, it's the sudden stop at the end ,
We had a similar issue when we upgraded the rear callipers to 4-spot Willwood. We had the valves in the line, etc and we would get a soft pedal. I spoke with Willwood and ran through the details with them, including length of the pedal from the pivot point, etc, etc, and they suggested that we increase the size of the master cylinder. i can't remember the size of it now, but it made a massive difference and fixed the problem. Their explanation was that when the master cyclinder is too small it takes a couple of pumps on the pedal to get enough fluid through to pump out all of the pistons, so after a long stretch on not using them the pressure in the line/calliper dropped back down and would require a couple of pumps to get a good solid pedal again (even with the valves fitted). As soon as we made the change, it was a lot better.
gary , the calipers are the ones from hunter rivmasta , made in the usa i think by tatume
trekka i see what your saying , and it makes sense ,did you go up one size or more ? as i said im running 3/4 rear , 7/8 front , i can borrow a 1" off a mate and fit it to the front and fit my 7/8 to the rear and see how i find the pedal pressure , like DP said , better hard than long , lol
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were we're goin we dont need roads.
it's not the speed of life that scares me, it's the sudden stop at the end ,
To be honest with you, I cannot remember what size we started with, and what we moved up to. I was trying to find the information as I have it written down somewhere with a heap of other details, but can't find the book at present. I do know that they basically used a formula that took into account the piston area of the calipers and also the pedal ratio, which was the length from the pivot point of the pedal to the middle of the pedal itself. I tried to find the details on the Wilwood website, as we were running them, and it does habve a lot of detail there, so it might be worth a look there, or even email them with some details and see what they come back with.
Jeremy i'am going to upset some people but i have tattum on my old car and don't like them
i went down the path of trying all sized m/cyl no improvement on mine. I fitted tattum midboard floaters which came with 4 pot calipers i wished i had spent a bit more and got Fortin or Albins - check to see if your disks are not warped.
Get some good calipers Willwood are a good buy if you shop around spend a bit more and buy some better quality pads
i was comparing these tatume built ones agains a pair of CNC's , and noticed on mine that the 2 halfs are clamped togeather using only 2 bolts while the CNC's and others , use 4 bolts :( wasn't happy , took it up with the supplier and was told thats the way they have made them for years ,
though i dont think thats got any think to do with the pad knock off , and again if the disc was warped it would happen all the time , this is just happening after jumps , really rough terrain ,
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were we're goin we dont need roads.
it's not the speed of life that scares me, it's the sudden stop at the end ,
