a few years ago the e15 turbo was the engine to have,some people are funny about helping you with engine mods,id get on the net ,see what they do to them,they go pretty hard stock with a ecu and a tune
The engine block for the SR16VE is the same as the SR20VE; it also has the same cylinder bore. The SR16 crankshaft has a shorter stroke, which lowers the displacement, but allows the engine to safely rev to higher RPM.
-- Edited by 204 on Wednesday 4th of April 2012 06:11:32 PM
I was thinking of fitting a set of extractors bigger throttle body set of cams and maybe an after market intake/plenum?? Is it worth it bang for buck wise. Safeco are you talking more gain in the exhaust with standard manifold or complete after market extractor and exhaust?
Tine, there are two reasons people are funny talking about there motors
1: they want to win a $2 trophy and think by not talking about there motor and other set ups it will give them an advantage .
2: there motor is over size.
These poeple will never get court because no one will protest incase they are wrong and loose there money and look like a dick doing it. And cams will never do some thing about it because they are to busy thinking about bull shit rules like seatbelt cutters ,fuel taps and drug testing.
Try the SR20 forum I have just finished rebuilding my SR20, which I guess is pretty close to the 16 in bang for buck mods Wiseco forged pistons for 11.5:1 comp $1300 Knife edge crank $600 Custom cams $800 Valves, Double springs, retainers band guides about $1000 Get it balanced it makes a massive difference. I port matched and polished the head and intake. It took a lot of time but is the biggest power increase in the SR20 Charles at www.motoreco.com.au in Wodonga has just finished three SR20s and would be happy to give you advice.
when that "1650" hoses you off the line,all you think is jezz thats quick wonder why its twice as quick as mine,WELL NOW WE KNOW,or do we,no one wants to waste their money finding out,so go up a class prolite,hang on wasnt someone talking about stroking a vq 35, cant win this arguement(turbo),half the time you can spend too much money and go no where,they are a good little motor with a computer and tune,i dont think you need too much there,but a good package in the car department is a must these days,its getting harder to finish races if you push the car 100%,that engine will rev all weekend,not many cars will go all weekend ,spending your hard earned cash on finishing is the answer,,,
-- Edited by tine on Thursday 5th of April 2012 06:47:49 PM
Always be careful of advise that people give you unless they have tried it themselves as the forums are full of young guys trying to get a dyno reading to show off to their friends. I would be careful wasting a lot of money on cams as the ve motors are already a race bread motor. You could put N1 cams in it but you will loose torque which will ultimatley make you slower in off road. I personally think you would be wasting your time getting and sr20 and modifying it back to an sr16 (you may make it go slower). leave the standard exhaust manifold on the car (unless you want to save weight) and play with the secondary pipes. After that you can change lots of things and gain 1kw here and there. I have been down the path already of trying to get more. At the end of the day keep the motor pretty much as you get it and spend your money on the suspension on you car!
Others may have a different opinion. I would love to hear if anybody has had good gains anywhere else (tried and tested not forum rubbish)
Yep I agree with Safeco on the SR20 forum HP wank factor and also lots of horsepower in an unusable rev range will make you slower and when it does kick in you will lose control. I have had to back off the HP and chase a bit more torque through cams and pistons. Not sure of what HP or torque as yet, but I will know soon. Definitely do your own port work on the heads as it might take a while but is a definite HP gain and is easy if you have the time and patience. There is a guy in Vic running a modified SR16 in an A-arm, but I will ask him before giving out details.
204, I assume he wants to run class 2, if he puts the sr20 crank and rods in the sr16 then it would be an sr20 vvl, he would need to go up to pro light. I personally like to play by the rules but agree there could be other who don't.
you best bet is to maximuise on intake and exhaust work if you can get as much air/fuel in and out quickly you will make power. so go big throttle bodie or even bodies if you can, get a decent exhaust system, match port it all. get a set of cams to suit and springs over size the valves .
then most important get it tuned. no mods will work unless tuned to suit.
i'm currently putting a sr20ve in my prolite. i will changing the intake to quad throttle bodies. making a set of custom headers. then tuning to suit. for now.
you can go crazy by, doing crank work, forged rods and high comp pistons and balancing it all just depends on your pockets, also dont forget about weight reduction. if your buggy weighs 1500kg. try to drop it down. especially with a 1.6ltr dont make a great deal of torque but love to rev.
also do not forget about a good engine breather setup and sump baffling these all help to good hp.
204, I assume he wants to run class 2, if he puts the sr20 crank and rods in the sr16 then it would be an sr20 vvl, he would need to go up to pro light. I personally like to play by the rules but agree there could be other who don't.
Most of us offroaders do play by the rules,but there are some who don't.and for those who don't , this motor is a quick easy cheat . And by addressing it now hopefully it will stop these people who are looking at this motor to cheat
I think from the beginning, 204 was just making a sarcastic remark as a joke, and implied some people run 1650 class but cheat........ Safeco may have misunderstood the comments? Hope that is correct? My 2 cents worth is that all 1600 motors will be very similar no matter how much money is spent! (unless you do fit a bigger crank, which we all know other cheats have done!) I agree to spend your money on suspension, gear ratios, and use driving techiques to be competitive.
Sorry if I misunderstood! (i guess that just confirms why you need to be careful of forums :) Shane, if you want to know what we have done then just come over at mannum or baroota and we can chat about where we got the most gains.
You are correct jonesy
On the off season I saw a sr16 motor for sale with a sr20 crank in it, I have done research on this motor and seen how easy this motor is to get as high as 2.2 litre, just by changing the crank and rods,I think it will been only a mater of time till these motors will be in a lot more buggies ,I beleave that cams should be giving events the right, if they think a racer with one of these motors is cheating to pull out a plug at the end of the race and measure the stroke.as the stroke of a standed one is 67.5 and 2litre is 86 it will be easy to tell.
You are correct jonesy On the off season I saw a sr16 motor for sale with a sr20 crank in it, I have done research on this motor and seen how easy this motor is to get as high as 2.2 litre, just by changing the crank and rods,I think it will been only a mater of time till these motors will be in a lot more buggies ,I beleave that cams should be giving events the right, if they think a racer with one of these motors is cheating to pull out a plug at the end of the race and measure the stroke.as the stroke of a standed one is 67.5 and 2litre is 86 it will be easy to tell.
Dont the event organisers, or other competitors, already have the right to check the capcity of a motor if someone puts in a protest? So if it is obvious that someone is running a motor that does not comply any competitor can protest and the motor would be checked?
safeco unfortunatly i wont be going to either round, work always gets in the way of fun, but wiil catch up at another round for a chat. looks like inlet and exhuast work for starters as i think reliabilty is more imporant then hp. what are the stock power steer pumps like any good? or throw away and fit a howe?
I have a howe rack and unfortunatly the standard pump did not move enough volume to make it work properly. Depending on what rack you put in I would give it a go but be prepared to get another pump.
The way I read it is ,You have the right to protest a car, which has to be done in writing to the officials at the event . Then the official has two options .1: impound the automobile or motor immediately or 2: if it's something that can be seen ( eg turbo on a pro litre) it can be recorded and send in. The motor/car shell remain the property of cams intill the matter has been determined .
So to me that means you can not pull a motor apart and test it at the track so some how the car/ motor has to get somewhere for cams to do it. How is the car/ motor going to be moved?Then how long will this take? Could it mean you drop a round?
If you did a stoke test first at the track , you can then give them a please explain. then it's up to the official or protester to take it further .
I fitted my SR16 about 7 years ago, apart from my own design sump I left the engine stock. I made my own headers as close in length & design (4 into 2 into 1) as the original very heavy cast iron unit. I've used the stock throttle body & have always run a Donaldson air cleaner. I run all EMS computer, igniter & 2 coils (wasted spark). I have never had any concerns with the std steer pump using std drive pulleys, lets not forget , the techies at Nissan designed this thing to rev like hell in stock trim, which it does. I've had a lot of fun with it & it has done a lot of racing with no trouble at all and it has been a very successful car with many podiums. I suggest leave it stock & have a good tuner set the ECU & have fun learning to drive a very potent, brilliant engine between 6000 & 8000rpm for best results. The only thing I have changed on my program since initial set up has been to change the camshaft switching rpms to suit my driving habits. My gear ratios are also arranged for best results with the power bands, I know it sounds funny but the power bands are really like a motocross bike when driven hard. I will continue to leave it stock & expect it to last many more years.
