Post Info TOPIC: a non searched and more then likely stupid question..


In rehab

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a non searched and more then likely stupid question..


depends on the size of the rotary but its size x 1.8
Rotary Combustion (Wankel-type) Engines:
The nominal engine capacity will be calculated by the following formula: 1.8 times the volume determined
by subtracting the minimum capacity of the working chamber/s from its/their maximum capacity unless
otherwise specified in Group technical regulations.

the fit it into class sportsman up to 1330

super 1650 up to 1650

pro lite up to 3500 nat asspirated

pro up to 6000



-- Edited by gav24 on Sunday 23rd of September 2012 09:56:27 PM

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I have one speed one gear......GO



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ok, im curious to know what class a rotor would be in.. the cams page is like deciphering the pentagons security.

 

also, has there been much luck with them. please dont get all flustered and say they are rubbish if you havent owned one or had a first person experience with one.

 

i'll add too that im new here but have roots in offroad racing. ie, my dad his brother and familly friends.

my name is Jordan Roper and im pleased to meet you all! 



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hmm, rotary?


Powerhouse Poster

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hi jordan
a rotary would be in PROLITE (under 3.5litre non turbo)
or PRO ( up to 6litre or 3.5litre turbo)
ive never raced a rotary but have seen a few get around in the past.
the 2 things that i see wrong is they have a low sump and causes a ground clearance problem and off road tracks
tend to be tight and boggy which a lot of torque is needed and from what ive seen the rotary tends to take to long to wind up
im sure other people on this forum will give u further advise .


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the sump low? its probably only about half the height of an sr?

cool, yeah i thought they would be in the pro group. im pretty sure in road racing they group them with cars over 3l. but everyone has different sizing ideas.

thanks for your help!

 



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hmm, rotary?


Forum Junkie

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Sump height isn't an issue at all. It sits approximately the same height as any other engine. However engine weight is lower in the chassis as the "crank" is central.
In terms of power the rotary responds fantastically to forced induction. They really are a very good engine turbocharged. Very lightweight, reasonably powerful. Not a match for a large V8 or a V6 twin turbo. But get it tight, twisty where huge power can't be laid down then the light weight of the rotary has an advantage.

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yeah thats what i was thinking, my drift car has legs everywhere i needed it. i was hoping it may drop down a few classes though as you cant be competitive on a tight budget.

not that it stops you having fun though. 

i guess the more linear power/torque  curve of a rotor may result in less gearbox fatigue too.



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hmm, rotary?


Forum Junkie

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jr13b wrote:

i guess the more linear power/torque  curve of a rotor may result in less gearbox fatigue too.


 

That and the fact that the rotational mass is considerably less than that of a V6/V8 will also help in less fatigue.
I think a majority of the issue with rotaries is the perception that they are still very unreliable. A perception that is somewhat antiquated. Issues with sealing has been solved. The only issue is that they are such a simple engine that everyone believes that they can build one. Which isn't true as they still require very accurate tolerances and low wear parts.

In the past they have been mated against a bus box, which simply isn't up to the task and has completely the wrong ratios. Often described as a "low torque" engine, the turbo totally changes the power curve. Taking a batman for a spin sealed the rotary deal for me.

A 12A PP would be in prolite
A 13B PP would be in prolite.
A 18A PP would be in prolite
A 13b turbo would be in class 1
A 20B is only just in class 1 (by 32cc). and considering the weight of the 20b it probably wouldn't be compeditive in prolite anyway.
20B turbo would obviously be in class 1.....
An R26B would obviously be in the pure sex category.

My redline performance 13b rotary should develop 400whp with very little spool.

Daniel.


 



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sweeet! 

i was think BP for noise and wear and tear issues.

at one stage i was looking at putting a S1 20B into my FC and run it NA, but turboing it got cheaper gains.  



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hmm, rotary?


Forum Junkie

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BP will wear greater than a PP with almost as much noise.

Turbo 13b would have to be the way to attack the big budget boys (on a tight course).
Turbo 20b just adds weight with very little more power put to the ground.

An NA 20b PP would be a good match against a prolite. But it's illegal by 32cc.

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reckon so? not being able to idle under 1500rpm and machining and welding into the water jackets arent a long time thing. a few track cars round my way are always changing/reapairing housing with water leaks etc, same as j port.

a good BP will make 250hp and if resealed every 30,000 will be a good contender.. 

this is a car with a good length of exhaust.. so loud..

 

anyone who says that sound isnt cool is a liar..

 



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hmm, rotary?


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Supercharged and intercooled would be a good way to get some low RPM torque without murdering clutches and it's easier to get right than a turbo which needs some load to make boost.

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