Post Info TOPIC: to powder coat, or not to powder coat...???


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to powder coat, or not to powder coat...???


Our buggy will be off to the sandblasters pretty soon and the debate is on now whether to paint or powder coat.  Ive heard good and bad points and we're pretty much on the fence as to what we should do.

What'dya reckon?  Whats your experience?  Any help appreciated!



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Wolf l heard of a product called speedliner it is used for the back of utes ect but doesn't fade like rhino lining does. It comes in any PPG color that you like and there should be a franchise near you. Look at thier site www.speedlineraustralia.com.au the only draw back l can see, would be if you had to do any weld repairs.

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Wolf wrote:



Our buggy will be off to the sandblasters pretty soon and the debate is on now whether to paint or powder coat.  Ive heard good and bad points and we're pretty much on the fence as to what we should do.What'dya reckon?  Whats your experience?  Any help appreciated!

Having been down that track myself a few years ago, and choosing very expensive two-pack paint and having it porfessionally done, I would go with the powder coating.

Paint is good, but too easily damaged by stones, etc, etc.  The powder coating stands up much better to the abuse that it cops.

The reason we went with paint was because we believed that powder coating may hide any little cracks, etc from sight, whereas they would be more easily visible with paint. 



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Trekka273 wrote:

Wolf wrote: Our buggy will be off to the sandblasters pretty soon and the debate is on now whether to paint or powder coat.  Ive heard good and bad points and we're pretty much on the fence as to what we should do.What'dya reckon?  Whats your experience?  Any help appreciated!Having been down that track myself a few years ago, and choosing very expensive two-pack paint and having it porfessionally done, I would go with the powder coating.

Paint is good, but too easily damaged by stones, etc, etc.  The powder coating stands up much better to the abuse that it cops.

The reason we went with paint was because we believed that powder coating may hide any little cracks, etc from sight, whereas they would be more easily visible with paint. 




that was our theory too - ive since been told that cracks are still easy to spot.  re the welding, Ive been told if you strip the powder coat with an oxy its not dramas at all.  Anyone else found the same?



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I have powdercoated & painted many buggies. I will never paint again as powdercoat has proved to be far more durable.
Cracks are a little harder to spot, but not needing to repaint every 6 months outweighs that problem.
If repairs are needed, I just grind off the area with a flap wheel and weld away.
Touch up pressure packs are also available to suit the colour usually.
Just be aware that not all powdercoaters do the same job, some are pretty dodgy, get some input from other members before picking your supplier.

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Garry
I have had both powdercoated and painted
Moving parts I would paint just matt black, easy to touch up after every race
From a sand blaster veiw
My painted frames were much easier and cheaper to blast than my powdercoated frames
And jones is right there are good ones and bad powder coaters
My personal choice is painted
confused


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 hi guys, just a thought ,what about going naked, im mean clear , unpainted, easy to spot cracks , no need to respray after any repaires, never fades , just an idea anyway , se ya's around.



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westraLIA wrote:

hi guys, just a thought ,what about going naked, im mean clear , unpainted, easy to spot cracks , no need to respray after any repaires, never fades , just an idea anyway , se ya's around.

There are a few cars geting around like that now.  The problem is, when the car gets wet, it goes rusty.  That is fine for the top level guys who completely strip their cars every race and can clean it up, but I think it would get very, very annoying constantly having to clean it.

As I said above, personally I would definitely go powdercoat becuase it does last a lot better than paint.  If welding, etc is required then it is not that difficult to clean the area off and once complete use some paint to touch it up.

 



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When we finished our car we left it in bare metal for the first season and I'm glad we did as we were constantly changing things. It got wet at the Pines though and stayed wet in the truck for a few days so we had to sand blast and paint to get rid of the surface rust.
We chose to use two pak and while not as durable as powder coating it is easier to get off for repairs and changes and a lot easier to touch up especially if you need to re paint a large area.
Even though our car is a 'production' frame we are adding bars to stop cracking through out the season.

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We considered the bare metal option... but decided it was too much work to keep clean.

We're gonna powdercoat.

We've had a few recommendations on powdercoaters - Fatman seems pretty set on the guy at revesby (cant remember the name), so I'll ring him and get a quote. Any other recommendations for sydney area?

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    motown
    i think you made the right choice, its tuff and does not scratch and chip that easy and is easy to keep clean and if done properly will last a long time .

      the company in revesby is   mr clean   they are on gow st  tell them its like a sprint car frame . furious


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We had a quote from mr clean at padstow they were $800 02 97901998

Ended up using cormac's at smearton grange (narellan) $550 blasted and powdercoated chassis + nerf bars ..rear arms front arms + stubs done later $100
about 10 pieces of aluminum .roof, fuel tank cover, roof fins ect ect $100 
 10 x coil springs $100 try them on 02 46474001
They did a great job

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I had mine blasted and powdercoated at Narellan Powdercoating, Frame, rear arms, Front beam, and front arms for $500 (Would have been $450 cash but I wanted the receipt) beginning of 2006, excellent job with an extra baking for a harder surface.



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Aztek - who'd you use?

Thanks all - I'll be making ph calls next week.

-- Edited by Wolf at 10:40, 2007-04-04

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I got mine powdercoated, then a clear metallic powdercoat over top. The appearance is excellent but have found the clear is chipping easily & not very resistent to brake fluid.
Its about 2 yrs old now, and is probably about 90% as good as day one!
My job only cost $600 inc all cotrol arms, shafts etc, & springs...but you would need to go to Leeton for that.

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Leeton huh - nope, bit far for me!

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