well after looking at the frame this morning i wish to know if it would affect the logbook if i remove and replace all the rhs base of the frame.
it has had 3 owners i'm the 4 and has been cut and tucked and is showing signs of it's age. the bar work is all sweet it is only the rhs base that has been moded a bit at a time.
i will brace all the bar work and remove the rhs and replace with new whole lenght no bits as has happen in the past mwhich i guess is ok for repairs but i think it is a good idea to do a major while i have only a frame.
i have a 10mm steel topped work platform so getting it level and square is not a problem.
it also works out to less work is way as there won't be as many welds and i can fit all my new suspension mounts in the right spots and it will be neat.
Hello there, good project you have got there, now is certainly the time to replace the bottom rail, make sure you do it in 40 x 40 x 2.5 rhs as per the specs, also would be good if you ran a bar sfrom the top of windsheild rail to hip rail as these bars are now required 1" x 2.5mm I think is spec, as long as you send in log book with updated pictures of car & change of any eng specs ect all should be fine when you rock up for first race, good luck & keep us updated .
thats easy anything other then a frame that people have laying around i'm interested in.
well thats not totally true i don't need a gearbox as i will be running a renult un5.
with regards to an engine i wish to run a 2.5 toyota v6 and i know ian fish has one forsale at the moment but i don't have the avaiable funds at this point in time to buy it just hoping it's still there in a few weeks.
as for the suspension i'm currently making up the jigs but will consider coil over rear trailing arms to save me some time. ( i missed the cowie arms off the main site, spent money on home renos) will be runing a arm front as i have no font beam at all and cost wise of buy/build a new beam for not much more i can fab an a arm front. (i have a design taken form a buggy of very simliar size)
will also look at seats, pedal assembles, basicly everything else need to build a buggy.
of course i'm not only building to a time limt but to a buject of not very much.
as for the suspension i'm currently making up the jigs but will consider coil over rear trailing arms to save me some time. ( i missed the cowie arms off the main site, spent money on home renos) will be runing a arm front as i have no font beam at all and cost wise of buy/build a new beam for not much more i can fab an a arm front. (i have a design taken form a buggy of very simliar size)
will also look at seats, pedal assembles, basicly everything else need to build a buggy.
of course i'm not only building to a time limt but to a buject of not very much.
-- Edited by william at 19:50, 2007-11-04
William drop me a line if you want to use FOA coilovers and bump stops l will do a great price for you.
yeah kevin i email you when you put up your special about if you can help me out at the end of november so hopefully after all these weeks away with work my bonus cheuqe should be a big one.
thats the one have done ton's to my house with them. hoping to get gearbox and shocks with the next one so i can get all the frame finished with all mounts done.
i will be starting on the new base this weekend pick up the steel on thursday. also getting the last bit of steel for the a arms and trailing arm jig. they should be done in the next week or 2 week i have a mate making up the jigs.
guys just after your opions on what hubs i should run. i have been looking around the net and i'm thinking that the gear-one 930 micro stub kit for $1600 us looks like the go. will more then likely go with one of there front hub kits as well.
if any one has some old hubs laying around i may be intrested depending on cost.
i won't be buying now but the reason i'm looking now is i need to know so i put the right plate on the rear amrs to mount them up to. easier to drill and cut while it's not on the arm.
william, my brother and i run vt rear bearing housing's on our cars because there easy to get parts for and cheap to modify, plus a 930 cv will bolt straight up to them, if your going to colo next week might be worth looking at them and we have a complete rear end with torson tube,chromoly arms, cv's and 30 inch axles if you like what you see. they run standard vt disc's and calipers. just something different to think about (look for car 109)
William have a look at www.fms-parts.com/ these are the guys who built our new frame and supplied all of our hubs ect. They have a race micro stub kit with 4140 stub and wilwood calliper for $1300.00 US. Also have a look at all there other gear they have great prices.
well after 10 cut off discs and several hour smy buggy is now a convertable.
the floor was worst then i thought and i'm very glad i cut it out. i have started the new floor but didn't have my carmea with me over at work and don't really feel like driving over just for pics.
there no turning back now the old floor is total cut up and in the trailer ready to go to the scraper.
Are you going to make up a jig to keep it square? We didnt with the rivvy when we cut the main hoop out and it turned out... errr... not quite square! Not that that phased us. Shutup, Go Racing!
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Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
it actually wasn't square on the old floor as it was so bent so when i cut it apart it sprang and is now sitting pretty sqaure the new floor will be made on my steel toped table which is level etc and when i start to weld the cage down i way pull it in with chain blocks if needed but as it stands now its pretty good.
i have the new floor all layed out ready to weld up just have to make a few important descions with regards to suspensn then it will be full welding ahead.
i have been well over the cage and it is still fine the problem was the floor has been lengthen and repaied in the past and yes the car has been sideway into something which bent the tree bar and broke all the rear supension mounts. the floor was only 2.5mm 40x40 rhs i'm replacing with 40 x 40 x 3mm rhs and also replacing some of the frame bracing while i'm at it.
by the time i'm finished there will be a lot of new steel in the frame only the main frame will remain the same all the little brace bars will be upgrade to new specs.
i must stress to everyone i have checked this frame over with a fine tooth as it will be not only my life on the line but my wifes and family so i will not be taking any chances. haveing said that it won't be over engeernined just bring up to specs.
i have looked at that option and it is very tempting but i still wish to go do this route as i feel i will have that add enjoyment fact.
i enjoy the building stage of thing just as much as the driving/racing. and if it does take me to 2010 to finish so be it. i will be attending as many meets and working bee as i can just to help out and meet people face to face. i like the social side off this as well it give me something to do other then my daily grind job. i value you option and i may do it yet but for now i will keep heading in this direction and see what happens.
i have looked at that option and it is very tempting but i still wish to go do this route as i feel i will have that add enjoyment fact.
i enjoy the building stage of thing just as much as the driving/racing. ...
We did a huge rebuild on the rivvy before we raced it, and have built the new car from scratch. Like you I love time in the shed, the build process is definately an interesting one. Especially for a tech.nerd who spends his working hours parked at a screen behind a desk... I love getting my hands dirty on the lathe, mig or twisting spanners. The only thing I dont like doing is CVs... and it always seems to be my job! Horrible!
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Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
l would have to say that building your own is great and the satisfaction with finishing in a car that you built yourself is just that little bit sweeter, but you have no one else to blame when it breaks. Also the piece of mind you have with the family in the car knowing that everything is as you want it and safe would have to be the most rewarding part.
the weekend was great i got plenty of good ideas and chatted to lots of people about things they think are the weakest point on the cars and also the thing sthat should be done to make the car safer. eg put a cover over the power steering lines and a wall between you and the box/rack. just in case you lose a seal or a hose splits it will stop your legs getting burnt. (i'm sorry i don know you name mate but i hope your leg is getting better).
overall i had a blast and got to talk to some great people. as for the building well it's going slow more into parts gathering at the moment i'm picking up some new chromoly rear arms with hubs this weekend. once i have them i will be working out my suspension and ordering my foa shocks from kevin and hopefully will be roller by christmas. when i have two weeks off which will mean i have the workshop and welder to myself for the whole to weeks so that will be when i really get things moving.
We cover our lines in that plastic tubing you use for electricals so if it does split you wont get sprayed, but its light and easy to remove if you do pop line, and we have put a firewall between the rack & actuator and ourselves as well on both the old car and the new.
We saw it happen to spizz at colo - not fun!
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Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
Most hose suppliers can supply a nylon type sleave that fits over the hose, its mainly used to stop the chance of oil injection at higher pressure but will also stop the spray of hot oil. its fairly cheap as well
William, try any hyd place & they should have the proper hyd hose protection, its made out of material similar to seatbelt webbing & is very flexible, comes in differnt sizes & you just cut to length & cable tie on each end, we use this stuff every day at work on our hyd hoses & swear by it.
i'm buying them from ian hill they run vt commoder hubs and discs i will post a pic of them on saturday after i pick them up. i will have an alloy cover over all the oil lines running down the guts of the car and a fire wall stop any possiblity as the wife will be driving too.