OK I LET THE CAT OUT OF THE BAG WITH THE PICTURE THERE ARE PLEANTY OF BRANDS OF PARTS OUT THERE LIKE GEAR-ONE, FORTIN, TATUM, HOWE WHATS GOOD TO USE IN THE WAY OF HUBS, RACK,ECT.SOME OF THESE GUYS HAVE PRICES ON THERE WEB SITE ARE THERE OFF THE SHELF ARMS AVAILABLE "A" ARM FRONT AND REAR TO SUIT MID BOARDS I SEE GEAR-ONE DO THEM BUT $?? NOT SURE IF I WANT TO FABRICATE THE ARMS MYSELF IF I COULD GET SOME TO COPY MY MATE HAS DONE ALOT OF DRAGCAR STUFF AS IS A1 ON THE TIG BUT HE WANTS SOME TO SEE FIRST AS FOR THE REST I HAVE A LS1 FOR NOW WILL USE ALBINS BOX ALSO SEATS WILL USE SOMETHING BIG AND NICE PEDALS THE LIST GOES ON AND ON SHOCKS ARE ANOTHER UNSURE OF SO COMMENTS WELCOME
you beat me to it by about ten min's from what matt told me. Any way as for gear mate email Rob Roy at kartek there hubs,racks, and bits are the best around and will look after you if you buy a number of bits from him.
i really dont think they will be up to that size of car as i would be thinking you will need vented discs and 4 spots and 6 spots brakes to pull it up with the motor you are going to be using. its nice to go fast but better to stop...
ok thanks but in peoples opinions are the gear-one hubs or tutum hubs up to a big car that will weigh a bit
We run the Tatum 934 midboards and they are fine.There drawback is you can only run one boot. The Fortons enable you to run 2 but I'm not sure about the others.All the mid-board set ups use the same bearings and seals so it gets down to the price and the boot set up they use. Gear one have a grease nipple on theirs which are good if you do damage a boot because as you pump in new grease it forces the contaminated grease out of the cv which you can wipe away before slipping the new boot on enabling you to keep racing. Normally if dirt does get into the cv you have to completely dissassemble the hub to clean the cv which is why a dual boot set up is good.
Ok thanks for the input i will ring JT i spoke to him a couple of years ago about similar things it a matter if he can adapt his parts to this frame im also interested in his front arms and spindles i suppose the best thing to do would be drop the chassis to him when suits and to see if he can make it a roller if possible is he into doing customer work yet i heard Jakko's car was there once for similar work?? other wise i will use gear-one hubs researched enough on this one
I know its a big call, but ive seen his work first hand. Hes the kind of guy who you could give a half finished project to and be totally over the impressed by the time you get it back. Knowing that what you have paid for will be up to the task. i know that there are others out there kalab Schmitt and John Towers both come to mind when it is time to get somthing done right first time. I am shore there are others out there so why not give them some praise. NSWCLASS2 will be the one to benifit.
i dont want to start a debate just get people opinions on what parts would be good to use The suggestions are good on different people out there that are in our sport it may help others out there building new cars who dont want to do the hard work or maybe don't have the gear or knowhow Thanks again
why not be a real man and do it yourself? haha! Im guessing it would be just too much work when youre trying to establish a new business at the same time!
I really like Greg's work. Bill Croft backs him which tells me its good! We've had him do bits and peices for our car. Its an offroad wonderland in his shed - esp when Buddy's and Brad's cars are both there, not to mention the porsche and Werners car.
Kaleb's car is a great piece of re-engineering as well. JT's cars speak for themselves as too. This reply wasnt real helpfull was it! haha!
-- Edited by Wolf at 09:59, 2008-03-11
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Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
na not helpfull i would like to have a go but i believe the suspension is one of the most if not the most critical to get right .. i spoke to a guy today he said he spent nearlly 6 months trying to design his .. but wont do any customer ones until his is tried and tested dont blame him maybe a trip to gregs place once they get back from WA is the go
Vern from Kadco swears by it. He does both types of rear suspension but says the five link is the ducks guts. You should get Dean Williams to build your front arms or see if you could get Matts spares to jig up from. When your frame was advertised on RDC it had all the front set up on it. If you need any help tracking parts down in the states just PM me l will put you in touch with some great suppliers over there.
from what matt said the "extras" arms ect didn't turn up with the chassis lost in transit .that was my first thoughts to measure or borrow or something to jig off for the front but when he told me what happened that went out the window and at that stage matt was unsure of if the arms would fit his car until they turned up . i did see it on RDC also but didnt want to go through the hassel to import it without seeing it and so on i will try vern Thanks boss
I like the concept of the 5 link, the adjustability factor would be a real bonus.
Laurie Svenson built one for his predator which works well from what Ive heard. And Kadco's look reeeeal nice! Perhaps the hub mounts could be supplied by them? That would have be the hardest bit to manufacture, and they could give you advice on mounting for anti-squat, camber gain, toe change for turn in etc and then weld in your own mounts?
Would the car be too heavy for it though?
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Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
Nev Thanks for the reply why i was asking is to see whats common size as in the states yours seems average size 92" to 94" wide and 120" wheelbase how did you find the buggy being that wide or will the test be later on
the jimco is some 8inches wider than the raceco which sitting on the other side of the car as well as the extra width was a bit of an issue lucky the couple of things i snotted with front right hand wheel were small and hyden was mostly open coutry if it was a kempsey a different story