hi all, having a go a building my own 1650 buggy and just after some ideas for mountin 2lt kombi box. i have it mounted now like in the beetles the two bolts on the gear selector and supports around the bellhousing this does not look strong enough to go racing with the little support just after some ideas on how other peiple mount there boxes. thanks ben
My class 2 (sorry , can't get used to super 1650) was built in '92, it's 1/2 way through it's 3rd log book & the box (vw 1800) is mounted as you say. ie; solid angle bracket to torsion housing at selectir housing, solid drop brackets from frame to bell housing ears & 2 solid drop down support rods at 45 or so degrees (when viewed from rear) to where the original engine mounts attached to the engine of choice, in my case a nissan SR16 (nice) has always worked fine. Hope this sets your mind at rest.
The rivvy was similar, only difference was we made a bracket housing an EH holden shackle bush on the nose of the box and ears off the torsion bar housing. We did this because we originally ripped the bolts out of the nose of the box.
260's works fine though and its done alot more hard work than our rivvy ever did!
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Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
A point to remember is that solid mounted means solid mounted. Your engine / gearbox ass'y won't flex, nor should your frame, so as long as your mounts are rigid & NOTHING can flex you won't break mounts or bolts. Either the whole lot has to be solid mounted, or the whole lot has to be soft mounted. Half & half won't work.
hahaha , i just read that what i wrote and i still cant spell even when im sober , must explain y im a fast driver , not ! i cant help being vertically challenged drunk , but its is cheaper that way ! which means more money to spend on the car ,
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were we're goin we dont need roads.
it's not the speed of life that scares me, it's the sudden stop at the end ,
