1. Assuming a STANDARD renault box (with diff load bolt). What would the recommended maximum limit of power output be. Not too break it per se but reliable with "reasonable" maintenance or replacement of smaller parts.
It has had a 3sgte behind it for a number of seasons with no major dramas apart from a mounting ear breaking off. I do drive with the the BOX in the back of my mind and try to be nice to it.
2. With that in mind and a prolite engine on the plans - which one???
No particular brand loyalty.
All suggestions welcome even if you are a one eyed aircooled or its nothing type.
36 views with no opinions have prompted me to put my hymble opinion in.
1. I think you have done very well with keeping the reno in one piece. Luke Erceg had a great run with his but that was in a mivec powered super 1650, probably the most raced MK5 out there.
2.The vq35 is the pick of the bunch but not cheap. The Suby and Honda motors are good, but for me i like the Mitsubishi v6. Its cheap, reliable and easy to modify. Ben Erceg has had an awesome run with his, now that the new trans is fitted its the most reliable buggy you could think of. Ben and Kelly won SAORRA driver/navigator of the year!
Having said all that i dont think the reno would hadle the vq35
Andrew is right (as much as it pains me to say haha). We had a great run with our reno box and I wasn't exactly gentle on it during its life, but never used the gearbox to slow down. I think this is a pretty important thing with the reno boxes. My opinion, for whats its worth, is that the UN5 boxs are great for super 1650 and maybe 2000cc engines. I wouldn't put anything larger than a 2lt engine behind it. (only my opinion)
As far as the engines go, the 3.5lt mitsubishi in Dad's car has done 22 races now with only an oil change. It is well and truly down on horsepower compared to the VQ35 and Toyota 3500cc engines, but is very strong and gets to the finish everytime. I have heard the VQ35 requires the new Motec computers to run it (not 100% sure and very happy to be proven wrong), which if true will greatly increase the cost of the install.
The VQ35 dont require the new Motec, it can also be run on Vipec and Autronic and others as far as i am aware, you will be looking at about $3500 for a VQ35 motor from you friendly wrecker!
I figured the VQ35 would be a bit pricey combined with engine management etc.
Looking at a new sns frame as well and transferring all the bolt on bits over so a total budget needs to be presented to the minister for war and finance.
Or at least a budget of some sort....more of a guide really, it shouldnt be too much more than that....OK pick a number between 1 - 100 X 1000.....
Mk5 Luva - do you know specific engine codes for the mitsy or honda V6?
if your after a honda you want a c32a lookaround they can be found for around $1500 you can find them cheaper i brought a front cut for $200 and sold the bit i didn't need and scrap the rest with a return of $300 so motor cost nothing but i have now on sold that to kelvin hill (2204) to build up as a stronger race engine for his car. john towers runs these engines as well as many others. do a search it should turn up a fair bit of info on this forum.
-- Edited by william on Friday 12th of February 2010 01:46:30 PM
Most of your money is going to be spent on setup no matter what engine you buy. Adaptor, clutches, flywheel, plumbing, wiring, computer. Might I suggest you base your offroader around an engine package that will make you compeditive (if that's what you desire) for some time to come. I ran a stock VQ35, kennedy adaptor, twin turbo's, at 520whp for two seasons without seeing damage to the stock block, pistons or rods. Amazing engine with fantastic intake and exahust paths. A search for yet more power has now landed us with Cosworth Internals. If I could have my time again though I'd go with the Maxima engine (over my 350z engine) as they are cheaper. Or possibly run the HR engine, if you can get your own adaptor plate made up. As the HR has considerably stronger bottom end with slighly higher comp pistons.
Most of your money is going to be spent on setup no matter what engine you buy. Adaptor, clutches, flywheel, plumbing, wiring, computer. Might I suggest you base your offroader around an engine package that will make you compeditive (if that's what you desire) for some time to come. I ran a stock VQ35, kennedy adaptor, twin turbo's, at 520whp for two seasons without seeing damage to the stock block, pistons or rods. Amazing engine with fantastic intake and exahust paths. A search for yet more power has now landed us with Cosworth Internals. If I could have my time again though I'd go with the Maxima engine (over my 350z engine) as they are cheaper. Or possibly run the HR engine, if you can get your own adaptor plate made up. As the HR has considerably stronger bottom end with slighly higher comp pistons.
I've got 2 x 2.4 mitsubishi 4 cylinder engines for sale if your interested. 1 has done less than 400 race km and the other is brand new ( both were ex factory with 0 kms ). With exhaust, adaptors and clutch to suit reno master, near new Haltech E6x and proffesional wiring loom and dynoed - ready to 'plug and play'. Motors are torquey, and work quite well with standard ratios while not overly stressing gearbox. $4000. If your interested PM me.
Red top 3SGE Beams motors are around a little more nowdays.Blacks are still a bit rare but are the best h/p 3SGE's.
Matt has his motor with adaptor and flywheel and any other stuff you may need to make it run. Spoke with him last week and i think his price would surprise you
We blew the renault output shaft off the line in its second event, though the clutch was dropped pretty hard, it was a driver red mist issue, not the box's fault. besides, the output shafts are notorious as being weak spots.
Weve got a lexus 4.0 with 200rwhp and 190ft/pd of tq and it was surviving the pounding we gave it at finke. Rick was keeping it flat off the tops of 1m - 1.5m whoops for the first 55km. We're now putting a quaife diff in it for the bigger output shafts for that extra bit of strength.
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Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
I'm being a bit of a sheep and following a well worn path with a Mitsi 6G74 V6. Yes I know the VQ does it better etc.
My frame builder put the final thoughts in my head and is allowing room for more a more potent package in the future. This set up will get me on the track faster, easier and racing.
Everything should be relatively easy to transfer accross from my old car like suspension and steering components. Just the mounting of components and tabs and dash, wiring etc. that will take time and brain space.
1981 SORE Frame for sale in a month or two with log book...... anyone??
The "minister" has not said no to an albins (hasnt said yes either). For now the renault will do.
I have auto electrician who wired my motec and complete buggy. I also know he has wired wolf computers. If you are interested give me a call on 0421045172 and I will speak to him for you. Depending which suburb in Melbourne you live in you may have to take it to his place.
hey Mallee,i run the reno behind a v6 turbo and have broken it every race (looking after it)the new output shafts,no o'ring groove,look good and i dont think you would break them,BUT the gearbox case is lucky to be 3mm around the diff,which im not sure but would probably be the thinnest case i have ever seen,the problem with my car is its too small to fit a bigger box,they are quite a bit longer and the car lifts in the front under acceleration quite bad (fun though)the only smaller box was the weedle at a cost(which would be fine)but weedle said 3/4 wouldnt handle it,so back to a reno with a 30 mm case and a few mods ,should be quite strong,and less than half the price and bolts straight in with few mods,(always an option you can fit later)
(hasnt said yes either). For now the renault will do. 
