Where would I find a UN5 nose cone mount plate? Is that what its called?
My ears have broken off once before and Ally Mig welded back on. There is either weld porosity or new cracks leaking GBox oil slowly. Put simply I dont trust them for another season.
The ones I have seen appear to be machined and a lot thicker than stock. Internet search revealed no answers. When questioned the owners replied "on the car when I bought it" and not much help.
Does anyone know what I am talking about - Are they difficult to fit (I havent touched the box... yet)
hi simon cant say ive seen the mount your talking about , but on the one i used to have i mounted it on nylon bushes for a little flex and a seperate strap over the top, similar to james maddens from the off road shop, pics on his web site, dont know whether this will help , if not try james
hey simon,i was running the un5, i made a mount from the ears braced back to the box,takes the load off the ears,i still have it here,if you want,give me your mobile no.i will send you some photos,,,
hi Simon, I have mounting ear reinforcement plates that fit between the main case and nose cone in 4 or 5 mm BUT when fitting either of these the 5th gear shift fork has to be moved the same distance along the selector shaft.
Remove the plug in the side of the nose cone , just above the speedo drive and remove selector spring and ball,remove all bolts and remove nose cone.
The interlock can be swung around to allow you to select 1st and 5th gears at the same time, this allows you to undo the nut holding on 5th gear hub, slide off hub and selector fork.
Drive out roll pin , I drill a new hole through the fork as well as the shaft to give better seperation between the holes in the shaft. The new position is the thickness of the plate AWAY from the grooves in the shaft.
Reverse for assembly.
The shaft is hardened I used a solid carbide drill.
Plug to access 2 pins in selector shaft only allowed easy access to one pin and then only when in 5th gear. Eventually got the thing off without breaking anything but the plug hole is a bit rooted. I just re read Lawries post re cone removal and that said to remove the spring and ball from the side - That would have been easier (if I remembered)
Opened it up to find globs of silicone smeared everywhere. GLOBS of it. Obviously not the first time this thing has leaked. <--- Not me!
Once all the silicone was removed the cracks showed themselves. 3 of them all on the same ear. The other ear has been repaired as well but I cant find any cracking.
The photos show the three cracks and I have put a black line next to them to show length. You can even see a blob of ally mig that has been plonked in there and ground back??
So - How to fix or Do I throw it and source another (is that possible - Just the nose cone?)
Suggestions please people I'm leaning towards grind, vee, heat, tig BUT it is cast with a side order of ally mig + Oil / Grease throughout the crack as it was leaking from here. Not the best scenario.
I was going to suggest going to a former club member in Clayton who could have welded it but you're a long distance away.
If you intend going to Avalon on Saturday let me know & I'll take a reinforcement plate down for you to look at, there may also be another member there who can help you.
Update - I tried to weld up the cracks after chasing and grinding them through the full thickness of the casting and running into the previous repair efforts. Approx 60% of the material holding the ear on was removed following the cracks.
Every few mm opened up huge voids full of oil and crap, inplaces it was honeycomb with weld porosity. The heat from the tig boiled everything into a black sooty mess regardless of the surface cleaning. Stopping every few seconds to clean it off became a pain. You could see "volcanos" erupting in the puddle leaving pin holes and voids behind - MORE LEAKS AND CRACKS TO COME.
More cracks have showed themselves whilst pre heating the ear as the oil weeped out of them - call it poor mans dye crack testing. Increasing the balance to clean the weld puddle works great on aluminum oxide but struggled with 80W gear oil
So despite best efforts, the nose cone is junk and had its day. With a new (second hand) cone I can look into strengthening the ear supports so this doesnt happen again.
Wolf - you mentioned you had a nose cone - could i trouble you to have a look at it please.
Simon, sorry mate, haven't checked back here in a while. I've got the nose cone. Call me on 0403:385 9zero2. I'm assuming you'll need it for sea lake so I'll exp post it. If not I'll bring it over with me.
Cheers, Myers.
__________________
Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
hey mate, I've still got the nosecone floating around. I did take it to sea lake, but didnt arrange to meet. der.
Are you coming to Griffith? Or someone nearby coming to Griffith? I'll take it down.
__________________
Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
Thanks guys, I finally sourced one it is now installed.
Spoke to the previous owner of the gearbox and am making a cradle to support the arse of the gear box without using the ears. He got sick of them breaking too.
I guess thats Karma as you gave me a pair of old torsion bars for my buggy for nothing.
Rare sport that donates race spares to each other.
Can't wait to see you on the track mate.
Thanks for the offer Wolf - I wont be at Griffith though. Each race I try to get finished for gets put back for some stupid reason. Dare I say Pines??? Perhaps...
Here's the formula - tell me where my maths is wrong cause it don't add up --> Work = $$ = Racing - (Work travel / hrs in a day) + Family - Bills + waiting for parts = not racing
I know I'm not the only one juggling this but geez its frustrating. So close but still so far.
Pedroski - That's what I love about it. Been hanging around Offroad since 2001 as a spectator and saw the efforts people go to get the person they are competing against back out there. Theres no point hanging on to parts that wont fit my car, someone else can have em and get out there quicker / cheaper. I destroyed an adapter plate on the rear wheel at Baroota a while back, within minutes of taking it off with no spare I had all the tools needed to drill out 5 new stud holes in the stuffed plate and chamfer for the nuts. Got it done ready for Sunday race. I had to wander the camp asking whos massive drill it was, who lent the 22mm drill bit etc. They all just appeared!
BTW I didn't say for nothing - there is a can coming my way somewhere sometime!!
haha, caught this too late. Its still in the trailer, I'll bring it along to pines. :)
Agreed re the guys in this sport - in our first NSW championship year a guy we were competing against offered us his spare gearbox on saturday night so that we could finish the event! We only used the nose cone off it (we couldnt afford to fix the box if we broke it) and beat him out for 3rd place in the championship by a couple of points. :)
We took home his spare box home with us on Sunday afternoon and paid to have it serviced to say thanks and the builder found an easily rectified problem with it, so he ended out with a fresh and reliable spare. Now thats good karma. :)
Mind you, he beat us the next year using that box... haha. :)
__________________
Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
I'm leaning towards grind, vee, heat, tig BUT it is cast with a side order of ally mig + Oil / Grease throughout the crack as it was leaking from here. Not the best scenario.
