Hi guys, im new to the sport so i need some advice. I just got my 4age running tonight in my buggy for the first time. I hard mounted it (after some advice given by an 'expert').... anyway, it vibrates the aluminium floor pan and firewall and everything else really.
The gearbox has to be hard mounted due to existing mounting points on the chassis.... Is it normal to hard mount? Should i remake engine mount to take a rubber mount? Could I use some sort of nylon washers or something to reduce vibration?
Any advice would be appreciated
i run a 4age 20 valve , its hard mounted along with the gear box like WDR577 said what you do with the engine you must do with the box or risk cracking the bell housing / adaptor plate also try some self adhesive foam often helps
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were we're goin we dont need roads.
it's not the speed of life that scares me, it's the sudden stop at the end ,
My 2 cents... If at all possible I strongly believe in some kind of "give" in the engine mounts. Not conventional engine mounts but urethane leaf spring bushes. Adding high frequency vibration to a highly stressed structure (buggy frame) just seems like a bad idea to me unless the engine and gearbox is a structural member of the vehicle and then it should really be a properly balanced engine. Bushes are as good as solid as far as driveshaft and shifter geometry is concerned they just decouple the vibration. If you think it's going to move take a slice of urethane off a damaged suspension bush and crush it in a press and see how many tons it takes to compress it 1mm.
I think you'll find you'll have a lot fewer nuts and bolts coming loose too.
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Rebuilding the old Sootchucker.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/No-Throttle-Offroad-Racing/187297714680091
We did that with the 4AGE/Kombi setup. Engine was solid mounted, the mount on the nose of the box we used a leaf spring bush from a HR (I think) Holden. Worked great and stoped the nosecone from cracking after that.
Funny thing was, we used to have issues with the box jumping out of gear when it was all solid mounted. Putting the bush in the front stopped it from hapnneing.
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Green Sally up. Green Sally down. Lift and squat, gonna tear the ground.
Not a buggy but engine and gearbox mounts all the same. Nissan patrol GQ / GU rear suspension bush mounting a patrol transmission and engine. Presses into a sleeve, allows some twist as part of its design so your mounting does not have to be perfectly aligned. Yet is designed to resist movement in the plane where the engine will try to twist it.
60mm between flanges, 14mm hole so a quick whip through with a 9/16 drill bit and you're laughing. The sleeves are cut off the ends of old suspension arms.
the engine mounts are aftermarket nolathane type bushes so are a lot stiffer, gearbox mounts are genuine bushes.
If you want something more solid you can use a leaf spring suspension bush and make your own crush tubes etc but it's more messing about than welding a cit off end of a suspension arm onto an adapter plate. There are some about that have an OD perfect for 38mm roll cage tube and a 19mm bore. I've used this method for my cage-chassis mount.
Simply sandwiching a piece of rubber wont do much unless you also put rubber, crush tubes and large washers on the bolts that attach said plate. There isnt much point if the bolts are bridging between the block / housing and the mount with nothing to isolate them.
-- Edited by Patrol842 on Thursday 23rd of May 2013 06:31:35 PM
-- Edited by Patrol842 on Thursday 23rd of May 2013 06:33:19 PM
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Rebuilding the old Sootchucker.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/No-Throttle-Offroad-Racing/187297714680091
i'm going to stick with solid mounting until it causes a problem. So far, it is just annoying when on idle. The floorpan and firewall vibrate and rattle. I plan to soft mount them with foam tape or cable ties sandwiched between them and chassis
